Organizer:
Patrick Grant
Date/Time:
Date(s) - Saturday 23 August, 2025
All Day
climbing
THIS TRIP IS PART OF THE MULTI-PITCH PATHWAY GROUP
If there are a few drop outs we may be able to squeeze in a few people with the right skillset.
UP TO DATE TRIP INFO
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1QoHRf4t5Kk8kh85-yZR-AbBsOTGJhU9uFJ_z3Tlz6Jg/edit?usp=sharing
THE CRAG
Boars head has two Blueys classics and nearBy are about a million old obscure trad climbs that no-one can locate. We’ll be looking at the two classics which are good introductions to Blueys multi pitching, Shandy (14) and Dirty Rotten Pig (19)
Shandy is very easy and would be a good route to have in mind when you get around to passing on this multi pitch skillset to someone else. A great way to consolidate what we have learned is to turn around and teach it to someone else.
GEAR
Team to supply personal gear for climbing in teams of twos and threes. We can work this out on the Whatsapp. Please remember to bring bolt plates as well as your usual multi pitch kit of head torch, prussiks, knife etc.
MEET UP
Cahills Lookout reserve 10am. From there its about 5-10 minutes walk to the abseil chains. There may be some issues finding free parking so build in some extra time to find a park
THE GOALS
Goal 1 is to build up efficiency on belay transitions and multi-pitch abseils.
Goal 2 to try a style of multipitching that you haven’t had a go at. Block leading. Swing leading. Groups of three.
Goal 3 is to begin thinking about a capstone objective for the end of the year.
ROUTES
Shandy – 3 pitches – 3 hours
14 ★★Shandy, 99m Mixed climb in Blue Mountains | theCrag
Dirty Rotten Pig – 3 pitches – 3 hours+
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/rhum-dhu/route/13141543
Some harder options
Pigs Might Fly (21)
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/rhum-dhu/route/5657615187
Razorback (21)
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/rhum-dhu/route/5657647575
VIDEO
Youtube Playlist of some relevant Blueys routes here –
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLiIUG0Up_U9d0DRH-waAnyIFlbigOcxR4&si=o4HsKO9eLtbJYmgt
APPROACH IS COMPLEX
Please read through the approach notes in the crag and/or Blueys guidebook. Approach seems complex and the maps are a little confusing. You may not have someone to follow if the group gets dispersed so you should have what you need to get in and out.
RETREAT IS POSSIBLE
Retreat from the base of the cliff is possible via a trail called the Devils hole Trail which is approximately 1km south of the base of the Boars Head formation. This might require some retreat abseiling and hectic bush bashing and would be dangerous to do in the dark without a headtorch.
“Devil’s Hole track descends from a sign opposite 239 Cliff Drive, to the base of the cliff here -33.72598,150.28833. At the base of the cliff the track can be followed left (facing cliff) to the base of the Boars Head abseil, or right to Narrow Neck.”
